Prediction of indoor climbing performance in women rock climbers

J Strength Cond Res. 2004 Feb;18(1):77-83. doi: 10.1519/1533-4287(2004)018<0077:poicpi>;2.


In an attempt to more clearly understand the strength characteristics of female rock climbers and whether those variables affect and predict climbing performance, 2 indoor climbing performance tests (route and bouldering) were compared to a series of muscular strength tests performed by moderate (n = 6), intermediate (n = 6), and expert (n = 6) female rock climbers. Significant differences (p < 0.05) were found between the expert group and the moderate and intermediate groups for climbing specific hand strength, as well as 1-arm lock-off strength when expressed as a strength-to-weight ratio. Multiple correlations showed that these variables (r > 0.426) as well as a questionnaire of past climbing performance (r > 0.86) significantly correlated to the tests of indoor climbing performance. In conclusion, climbing-specific tests of hand strength and of one arm lock-off strength reliably and sensitively measured 2 significant variables in the performance of indoor rock climbing, and a questionnaire of past best performance may be an accurate tool for the prediction of indoor climbing performance.

Publication types

  • Evaluation Study

MeSH terms

  • Adolescent
  • Adult
  • Analysis of Variance
  • Arm / physiology*
  • Female
  • Hand Strength
  • Humans
  • Muscle, Skeletal / physiology*
  • Physical Endurance*
  • Predictive Value of Tests
  • Reproducibility of Results
  • Sports / physiology*
  • Surveys and Questionnaires