The Influence of Processing Variables on Performance of O/W Emulsion Gels Based on Polymeric Emulsifier (Pemulen (R)TR-2NF)

Int J Cosmet Sci. 1999 Apr;21(2):119-25. doi: 10.1046/j.1467-2494.1999.183572.x.

Abstract

Pemulens(R) (BF Goodrich) are hydrophobically-modified copolymers of acrylic acid (Acrylates/C10-C30 alkyl acrylates) that could act both as primary emulsifiers for o/w emulsions and viscosity enhancing agents. The aim of this study was to assess the influence of different processing conditions (mixing equipment, speed and time of agitation) on the aesthetic characteristics, viscosity and physical stability of o/w emulsion gels based on the polymeric emulsifier (Pemulen TR-2 NF). This objective was achieved by applying a two-factor three-level experimental design at two sets: using a laboratory mixer and a disperser. Independent variables were mixing speed and time and dependant variables i.e. responses, were millimetres of oil phase separated after centrifugation at 3500 rpm in a laboratory centrifuge, and viscosity at shear rate 180 l/s. The responses were fitted into a second order model by means of a multiple regression analysis. For the samples prepared on the laboratory mixer it was shown that mixing time and speed produce a statistically important influence on viscosity, but not on physical stability: with increasing mixing speed and time the viscosity linearly increases. If we assume that greater energy input obtained by increasing the mixing speed and time produces a decrease in drop size and polydispersity and better developed gel network, then the optimal processing conditions will be at the point where maximal viscosity is attained. This result was in accordance with the centrifugation test - the best stability appeared when maximal mixing speed and time were applied, although this effect appeared not to be statistically significant. For samples prepared using dispersers no statistically important influence of processing variables on viscosity and physical stability was found. Additionally, emulsion samples prepared using the laboratory mixer appeared homogenous, while in samples prepared using the disperser, undispersed polymer lumps appeared. Based on physical characteristics of the emulsions, it could be concluded that the disperser is an inappropriate tool for processing the emulsions based on Pemulen polymers.