Background: Acetyl aspartic acid (A-A-A) was discovered through gene array analysis with corresponding connectivity mapping (Cmap). Using an in silico and in vitro approach, A-A-A was found increased keratinocyte regeneration, inhibited dermal expression of MMP making this compound a potential active ingredient for cosmetic application.
Objectives: To determine the conditions to successfully formulate A-A-A for skin delivery investigation and in vivo clinical assessment by the systematic approach of pre-formulation testing of the active, screening of formulation type on active delivery and stability evaluations.
Methods: Analytical evaluation of A-A-A was undertaken using LC-MS ESI method. Formulation stability was evaluated using Brookfield viscometer, pH analysis, optical microscopy and organoleptic evaluations.
Results: Analytical evaluation of A-A-A shows that pH significantly impacts chemical stability of the molecule. A-A-A containing formulae show minimal differences to vehicle product throughout the testing.
Conclusion: A-A-A is an active that can be successfully formulated in a cosmetic o/w emulsion within defined pH considerations.
Keywords: LC-MS; chemical analysis; emulsions; formulation stability.
© 2015 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie.