Pre-clinical formulation screening, development and stability of acetyl aspartic acid for cosmetic application

Int J Cosmet Sci. 2015 Oct;37 Suppl 1:28-33. doi: 10.1111/ics.12256.


Background: Acetyl aspartic acid (A-A-A) was discovered through gene array analysis with corresponding connectivity mapping (Cmap). Using an in silico and in vitro approach, A-A-A was found increased keratinocyte regeneration, inhibited dermal expression of MMP making this compound a potential active ingredient for cosmetic application.

Objectives: To determine the conditions to successfully formulate A-A-A for skin delivery investigation and in vivo clinical assessment by the systematic approach of pre-formulation testing of the active, screening of formulation type on active delivery and stability evaluations.

Methods: Analytical evaluation of A-A-A was undertaken using LC-MS ESI method. Formulation stability was evaluated using Brookfield viscometer, pH analysis, optical microscopy and organoleptic evaluations.

Results: Analytical evaluation of A-A-A shows that pH significantly impacts chemical stability of the molecule. A-A-A containing formulae show minimal differences to vehicle product throughout the testing.

Conclusion: A-A-A is an active that can be successfully formulated in a cosmetic o/w emulsion within defined pH considerations.

Keywords: LC-MS; chemical analysis; emulsions; formulation stability.

MeSH terms

  • Aspartic Acid / toxicity*
  • Cosmetics*
  • Drug Evaluation, Preclinical*
  • Hydrogen-Ion Concentration


  • Cosmetics
  • Aspartic Acid