Comparison of skin calming effects of cosmetic products containing 4-t-butylcyclohexanol or acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester on capsaicin-induced facial stinging in volunteers with sensitive skin

J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2016 Feb;30 Suppl 1:18-20. doi: 10.1111/jdv.13530.


Objective: To assess and compare the skin calming effect of cosmetic products containing 4-t-butylcyclohexanol (Eucerin(®) UltraSensitive Soothing Care Dry Skin) or acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester (La Roche-Posay Toleriane(®) Ultra Intense Soothing Care) on subjective symptoms of skin sensitivity, a controlled, single-blind, randomized split-face capsaicin-induced stinging test was conducted.

Methods: Thirty-one female test subjects, ranging from 19 to 65 years of age, with self-perceived sensitive to very sensitive skin were enrolled. After a 3-day preconditioning period with no application of facial products and positive reaction to stimulation with a 40 ppm capsaicin cream, the test products were randomly applied to either the right or left nasolabial fold. Burning severity was assessed immediately after capsaicin application, and 1, 2, 5, 10 and 15 min after application of the test products.

Results: All 31 subjects reported a stinging/burning sensation on both nasolabial folds after application of capsaicin. Treatment with the 4-t-butylcyclohexanol containing product resulted in significant lower values for burning/stinging after one, and two minutes post-application in comparison to the values for the acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester containing product. No significant difference was determined between the two test products for the point in time with most intense burning sensation, the severity of burning and the duration of burning after capsaicin application and subsequent application of the test products.

Conclusion: Both products alleviated capsaicin-induced burning during the first 15 min after application. A faster and more pronounced soothing effect in vivo was demonstrated for the 4-t-butylcyclohexanol containing cosmetic product in comparison to the acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester containing cosmetic formulation.

Publication types

  • Comparative Study
  • Randomized Controlled Trial
  • Research Support, Non-U.S. Gov't

MeSH terms

  • Adult
  • Aged
  • Capsaicin
  • Cosmetics / therapeutic use*
  • Cyclohexanols / therapeutic use*
  • Dipeptides / therapeutic use*
  • Facial Dermatoses / chemically induced
  • Facial Dermatoses / drug therapy*
  • Female
  • Humans
  • Middle Aged
  • Pain / chemically induced
  • Pain / drug therapy*
  • Sensation Disorders / chemically induced
  • Sensation Disorders / drug therapy*
  • Severity of Illness Index
  • Single-Blind Method
  • Time Factors
  • Young Adult


  • Cosmetics
  • Cyclohexanols
  • Dipeptides
  • acetyltyrosyl-arginine cetyl ester
  • 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol
  • Capsaicin