Determination of sun protection factors (SPFs) is currently an invasive method, which is based on erythema formation (phototest). Here we describe an optical setup and measurement methodology for the determination of SPFs based on diffuse reflectance spectroscopy, which measures UV-reflectance spectra at 4 distances from the point of illumination. Due to a high spatial variation of the reflectance data, most likely due to inhomogeneities of the sunscreen distribution, data of 50 measurement positions are averaged. A dependence of the measured SPF on detection distance is significant for 3 sunscreens, while being inconclusive for 2 sunscreens due to high inter-sample variations. Using pig ear skin samples (n=6), the obtained SPF of 5 different commercial sunscreens corresponds to the SPF values of certified test institutes in 3 cases and is lower for 2 sunscreens of the same manufacturer, suggesting a formulation specific reason for the discrepancy. The results demonstrate that the measurement can be performed with a UV dose below the minimal erythema dose. We conclude the method may be considered as a potential noninvasive in vivo alternative to the invasive in vivo phototest, but further tests on different sunscreen formulations are still necessary.
Keywords: erythema; reflectance spectrosocopy; sun protection factor; sunscreens.
© 2017 WILEY-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim.