Peptoids are a class of peptidomimetics whose pharmacological activities are widely investigated owing to their remarkable biological stability. However, the utilities of peptoids as cosmetic functional ingredients have not been fully explored. Here, we investigated anti-aging effects of PAL-12, a new hexa-peptoid, on UVB-induced photoaging in human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) and a 3D reconstituted human full skin model, Keraskin-FT™. PAL-12 suppressed matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) expression induced by UVB irradiation along with the attenuation of MMP-1 secretion as determined by ELISA assay. Interestingly PAL-12 slightly enhanced the expression levels of collagen-1 and fibronectin-1 in HDFs or Keraskin-FT™. In addition, PAL-12 prevented the decrease of cell viability following UVB irradiation. However, PAL-12 failed to affect ROS generation, cell necrosis and apoptosis significantly. Instead, PAL-12 suppressed UVB-induced activation of epidermal growth factor receptors (EGFR), extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK) and c-Jun, which may resulted in the attenuation of AP-1-promoted MMP-1 expression. Collectively, these results suggest that PAL-12 might be a novel cosmetic ingredient effective against UVB-induced skin photoaging.
Keywords: Epidermal growth factor receptor (EGFR); Keraskin-FT™; Matrix metalloproteinases-1; Peptoid; Photoaging; UVB.