Pollution-induced skin damage results in oxidative stress; cellular toxicity; inflammation; and, ultimately, premature skin aging. Previous studies suggest that the activation of autophagy can protect oxidation-induced cellular damage and aging-like changes in skin. In order to develop new anti-pollution ingredients, this study screened various kinds of natural extracts to measure their autophagy activation efficacy in cultured dermal fibroblast. The stimulation of autophagy flux by the selected extracts was further confirmed both by the expression of proteins associated with the autophagy signals and by electron microscope. Crepidiastrum denticulatum (CD) extract treated cells showed the highest autophagic vacuole formation in the non-cytotoxic range. The phosphorylation of adenosine monophosphate kinase (AMPK), but not the inhibition of mammalian target of rapamycin (mTOR), was observed by CD-extract treatment. Its anti-pollution effects were further evaluated with model compounds, benzo[a]pyrene (BaP) and cadmium chloride (CdCl₂), and a CD extract treatment resulted in both the protection of cytotoxicity and a reduction of proinflammatory cytokines. These results suggest that the autophagy activators can be a new protection regimen for anti-pollution. Therefore, CD extract can be used for anti-inflammatory and anti-pollution cosmetic ingredients.
Keywords: Crepidiastrum denticulatum extract; anti-inflammation; anti-pollution; autophagy; skin barrier.