Clinical evidence of the efficacy and safety of a new 3-in-1 anti-aging topical night serum-in-oil containing melatonin, bakuchiol, and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate: 103 females treated from 28 to 84 days

J Cosmet Dermatol. 2019 Jun;18(3):806-814. doi: 10.1111/jocd.12896. Epub 2019 Mar 28.

Abstract

Background: Topical melatonin is a potent antioxidant, yet there have been few clinical studies on its anti-aging effects on the skin.

Objectives: To clinically assess the anti-aging efficacy and safety of a new 3-in-1 night facial serum (NFS) combining melatonin with bakuchiol, a novel retinol-like ingredient, and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, in all skin types.

Methods: Five clinical studies were performed, with a total of 103 subjects treated from 28 to 84 days. Under dermatologist supervision, a 3-month efficacy and safety study evaluated anti-aging properties by clinical scoring and instrumental evaluations. Two studies evaluated skin hydration properties for 12 hours after a single application of NFS. Two studies were performed in oily skin: a 1-month efficacy and safety study and a 1-month comedogenesis study.

Results: After 12 weeks, clinical evaluation showed a statistically significant decrease in wrinkles (11%), an increase in skin firmness (8%), a reduction in redness (70%; P < 0.01 for all), and an overall improvement in skin quality and complexion. The reduction in wrinkles and the increase in skin firmness were also supported by instrumental evaluations (Dermatop and Dynaskin). Hydration levels increased significantly from 30 minutes until 12 hours and transepidermal water loss significantly decreased after 4H and 6H. Subjects favorably evaluated the efficacy and cosmetic properties of the serum, and it was well tolerated in all skin types including oily skin.

Conclusions: This 3-in-1 NFS showed significant clinical anti-aging effects when applied once daily and was well tolerated.

Keywords: anti-aging; ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate; bakuchiol; melatonin; vitamin C.

Publication types

  • Multicenter Study
  • Observational Study
  • Randomized Controlled Trial

MeSH terms

  • Administration, Cutaneous
  • Adolescent
  • Adult
  • Aged
  • Ascorbic Acid / administration & dosage
  • Ascorbic Acid / adverse effects
  • Cosmetics / administration & dosage*
  • Cosmetics / adverse effects
  • Cosmetics / chemistry
  • Face
  • Female
  • Healthy Volunteers
  • Humans
  • Male
  • Melatonin / administration & dosage
  • Melatonin / adverse effects
  • Middle Aged
  • Palmitates / administration & dosage
  • Palmitates / adverse effects
  • Phenols / administration & dosage
  • Phenols / adverse effects
  • Prospective Studies
  • Skin / drug effects
  • Skin / metabolism
  • Skin Aging / drug effects*
  • Skin Care / methods*
  • Treatment Outcome
  • Water Loss, Insensible / drug effects
  • Young Adult

Substances

  • Cosmetics
  • Palmitates
  • Phenols
  • Melatonin
  • bakuchiol
  • Ascorbic Acid

Grant support