Cosmetic use of three topical moisturizers following glycolic acid facial peels

J Cosmet Dermatol. 2020 Mar;19(3):660-670. doi: 10.1111/jocd.13074. Epub 2019 Jul 19.

Abstract

Background: Facial chemical exfoliation (peeling) involves using a chemical agent to insult the skin and damage the cutaneous barrier, to reduce the signs of aging. The use of a moisturizer is advised postprocedure to promote repair of the epidermis. Biomimic moisturizer formulations may be effective treatment options for repair following facial peeling.

Aims: The aim of this study was to assess the local tolerance and cosmetic efficacy of three topical moisturizers (Physiogel® moisturizing creams), used after a 70% glycolic acid facial peel.

Methods: Three randomized, evaluator-blind, parallel group studies were performed. Subjects were healthy females aged 30-60 years with moderate to advanced photoaged skin (Glogau photoaging type II-III). All included a screening visit, a 7-day washout period, a 70% glycolic acid facial peeling procedure, and randomization to a 14-day treatment period with one of the three test products vs control.

Results: The primary endpoint was reached in all three studies; all completed subjects in the test groups received a favorable dermatologist global assessment score for tolerance at Day 14 (postchemical peel). Secondary assessments of local tolerance based on dermatologist and subject self-assessment scores demonstrated improvements from baseline. No treatment-related adverse events were reported in any study. Benefits for the test products were also observed in secondary efficacy analyses of transepidermal water loss and moisturization.

Conclusions: These studies have demonstrated the local tolerance and cosmetic efficacy of three moisturizing skin care products, when used for skin recovery after superficial chemical peeling on the face.

Keywords: Physiogel®; biomimic; chemical peel; facial peel; skin barrier.

Publication types

  • Randomized Controlled Trial

MeSH terms

  • Administration, Cutaneous
  • Adult
  • Chemexfoliation / adverse effects*
  • Chemexfoliation / methods
  • Epidermis / drug effects*
  • Face
  • Female
  • Glycolates / adverse effects*
  • Humans
  • Male
  • Middle Aged
  • Rejuvenation
  • Skin Aging / drug effects*
  • Skin Cream / administration & dosage*
  • Treatment Outcome
  • Water Loss, Insensible / drug effects

Substances

  • Glycolates
  • glycolic acid

Grants and funding