Hemp Fibre Properties and Processing Target Textile: A Review

Materials (Basel). 2022 Mar 3;15(5):1901. doi: 10.3390/ma15051901.


Over the last several decades, Cannabis sativa L. has become one of the most fashionable plants. To use the hemp potential for the development of a sustainable textile bio-product sector, it is necessary to learn about the effect of the processes creating hemp's value chain on fibre properties. This review presents a multi-perspective approach to industrial hemp as a resource delivering textile fibres. This article extensively explores the current development of hemp fibre processes including methods of fibre extraction and processing and comprehensive fibre characteristics to indicate the challenges and opportunities regarding Cannabis sativa L. Presented statistics prove the increasing interest worldwide in hemp raw material and hemp-based bio-products. This article discusses the most relevant findings in terms of the effect of the retting processes on the composition of chemical fibres resulting in specific fibre properties. Methods of fibre extraction include dew retting, water retting, osmotic degumming, enzymatic retting, steam explosion and mechanical decortication to decompose pectin, lignin and hemicellulose to remove them from the stem with varying efficiency. This determines further processes and proves the diversity of ways to produce yarn by employing different spinning systems such as linen spinning, cotton and wool spinning technology with or without the use of the decortication process. The aim of this study is to provide knowledge for better understanding of the textile aspects of hemp fibres and their relationship to applied technological processes.

Keywords: fibre structure; hemp fibre; hemp retting; spinning; value chain.

Publication types

  • Review