Clinical evaluation of anti-aging effects of combined therapy-Azelaic acid, phytic acid, and vitamin C applied layer by layer in females with Fitzpatrick skin types II and III

J Cosmet Dermatol. 2022 Dec;21(12):6830-6839. doi: 10.1111/jocd.15359. Epub 2022 Sep 25.

Abstract

Introduction: Vitamins C, E, and A and substances of plant origin, including azelaic acid and phytic acid are frequently used in cosmetic preparations to counteract oxidative stress and negative effects of free radicals. The aim of the study was to evaluate a novel combined therapy consisting of azelaic acid, ascorbic acid, and phytic acid applied layer on layer.

Methods: Twenty study participants received a series of eight treatments performed every 7 days. Twenty percent azelaic acid and then 30% phytic acid were applied to the entire face, while 40% l-ascorbic acid only on the left side. The preparations were applied layer by layer. Skin parameters were measured before the series of treatments (T0), after the series of eight treatments (T1-8 weeks), and 1 month after the end of the treatment (T2-12 weeks).

Results: The application of two and three active compounds resulted in a significant improvement in erythema and hyperpigmentation both on the forehead and the cheeks, however, more pronounced effects were observed when all the three active compounds were used. Both applied types of treatment considerably increased skin moisture. All the participants (100%) were satisfied with the effects of the treatment. A majority of them reported an improvement in skin hydration, firmness, and elasticity, more uniform skin tone and a reduction of skin redness and wrinkles.

Conclusions: Topical application of these active compounds resulted in improvement of skin elasticity and flexibility, reduction of wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, erythema, and telangiectasia as well as amelioration of skin tone.

Keywords: anti-aging; azelaic acid; combined therapy; phytic acid; vitamin C.

MeSH terms

  • Aging
  • Ascorbic Acid
  • Female
  • Humans
  • Hyperpigmentation* / drug therapy
  • Phytic Acid / pharmacology
  • Skin Aging*
  • Vitamins / therapeutic use

Substances

  • Ascorbic Acid
  • Phytic Acid
  • azelaic acid
  • Vitamins