Grip and elbow flexor strength and endurance are crucial performance surrogates in competitive climbing. Thus, we examined the effects of blood flow restricted (BFR) climbing on grip and elbow flexor performance. Fifteen trained climbers (8 females; 20.8 ± 7.0 yrs; 1.72 ± 0.08 m; 63.0 ± 9.7 kg; 21.7 ± 2.7 IRCRCA grade) were either assigned to the intervention (BFR) or control (noBFR) group, using the minimization method (Strata: age, height, body mass, gender, and IRCRA grade). While BFR was used during low-intensity climbing training (2-times 10 min/session; 3-times/week), noBFR followed identical training protocols without BFR over 5 weeks. BFR of the upper limb was applied via customized pneumatic cuffs (occlusion pressure: 120 ± 23 mmHg, 75%; occlusion pressure). Endurance and strength performances were assessed via one-handed rung pulling (GripSTRENGTH), one-handed bent arm lock off at 90° (ArmSTRENGTH), static-intermitted finger hang (GripENDURANCE), and bent arm hang (ArmENDURANCE). Bayesian credible intervals revealed increased GripENDURANCE (+21 s (95% credible interval: -2 to 43 s)) and ArmENDURANCE +11 s (-5 to 27 s); adaptations via BFR. In contrast, GripSTRENGTH +4 N (-40 to 48 N) and ArmSTRENGTH +4 N (-68 to 75 N) were not affected by the BFR intervention. Fifteen cumulative sessions of BFR application with a cumulative total BFR load of 5 h over a 5 weeks macrocycle remarkably increased grip and elbow flexor endurance. Thus, BFR might serve as a promising means to improve relevant performance surrogates in trained climbers.
Keywords: Occlusion; climbers; grip; rock; time to exhaustion.
Blood flow restricted (BFR) climbing induced superior grip and elbow flexor endurance adaptations compared to non-restricted climbing training over a 5-week lasting training periodBFR and non-BFR climbing training induced similar grip and elbow flexor strength adaptationsTherefore, BFR served as a feasible, promising and beneficial complementary training stimuli additionally to the sheduled climbing training program.