A pilot study examining a double-conjugated, retinoid-based skincare regimen for darker, blemish-prone skin

Abstract

Background: Retinoids and alpha- and beta hydroxy acids are common components utilized in regimens for blemish-prone skin. However, balancing efficacy and tolerability is often challenging.

Patients/methods: This pilot study evaluated a double-conjugated retinoid serum specifically formulated for blemish-prone skin (AHARet-SA) in combination with exfoliating peel pads (double-conjugated retinoid, glycolic, lactic, and salicylic acids), a cleanser, mineral-based sunscreen, and a lightweight moisturizer in female participants with mild-to-moderate blemish-prone skin. Fifty-five percent of participants were Fitzpatrick Skin Type (FST) IV and 27% were FST V. Participants used the exfoliating peel pads (3x/week for 8 weeks; 2x/week for 4 weeks) followed by nightly AHARet-SA and a moisturizer (as needed). Improvements in skin were assessed using the 5-point Investigator Global Assessment Scale, and participant satisfaction and tolerability were assessed over 12 weeks.

Results: Significant mean improvement from baseline in skin clarity occurred after 4 weeks (14%; p = 0.04) with progressive improvements through week 12 (52%; p = 0.004). Eighty-eight percent of participants reported improvements in the appearance and texture of their skin and fewer blemishes/breakouts. Mild, transient adverse events were reported.

Conclusions: A regimen comprised of a double-conjugated serum and exfoliating peel pads formulated for blemish-prone skin led to significant improvements from baseline in skin clarity after 12 weeks in participants with predominately darker skin tones and mild-to-moderate blemish-prone skin.

Keywords: acne cosmetics; alpha hydroxy acids; cosmeceuticals; retinoids; skin of color.