AHR: The Overlooked Mediator in SkincareBridging Environmental Sensing and Skin Physiology

Environ Health (Wash). 2026 Jan 5;4(5):812-825. doi: 10.1021/envhealth.5c00424. eCollection 2026 May 15.

Abstract

The aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AHR) has expanded beyond its classical role and is increasingly recognized for its involvement in mediating the biological effects of cosmetic bioactives. Increasing evidence indicates that key cosmetic compounds, including resveratrol, ferulic acid, and curcumin, exert part of their effects through AHR activation, rather than solely via classical nuclear factor erythroid 2related factor 2 (NRF2) and nuclear factor kappa B (NF-κB)mediated pathways. Based on a comprehensive review of existing studies, AHR regulates multiple pathways relevant to skin function, including collagen synthesis, melanogenesis, barrier integrity, and metabolic signaling, highlighting its role as an integrative hub coordinating complex skin responses. This review frames AHR not merely as a xenobiotic sensor but as a transcription factor integrating multiple signals from environmental and bioactive inputs. Finally, we discuss how emerging tools, including AI-driven modeling and synthetic biology, may expand opportunities for future AHR-focused research and help inform more tailored skincare strategies.

Keywords: aryl hydrocarbon receptor; cosmetic bioactives; environmental dermatology; ligand-specific signaling pathway.

Publication types

  • Review