Investigation of water-soluble elastin as a multifunctional cosmetic material: Moisturizing and whitening effects

J Cosmet Sci. 2017 Jan/Feb;68(1):11-24.

Abstract

Elastin and collagen are extracellular matrix proteins that are widely distributed in the body. Although elastin essentially functions as a skin moisturizer, there have been few reports on its other fundamental chemical and biological functions. In this study, we investigated the moisturizing and whitening (tyrosinase inhibition) effects of elastin to examine its usefulness as a cosmetic material. Water-soluble hot alkali pig aorta (HAPA)-elastin was prepared from pig aorta using the hot alkali method. HAPA-elastin showed a widely distributed molecular weight and had a coacervation property that mediated reversible self-assembly of its molecules with increasing temperature. Amino acid analysis of HAPA-elastin showed a high content (81.5%) of hydrophobic amino acids such as Gly, Ala, Val, and Pro. Des (desmosine) and Ide (isodesmosine), which are characteristic amino acids of elastin, accounted for more than 0.4% of the total amino acid content. HAPA-elastin showed a moisture-retaining property. The water content of skin samples treated with and without HAPA-elastin was 77.2% ± 7.8% and 49.4% ± 10.1%, respectively. HAPA-elastin also inhibited tyrosinase activity by 11.3% ± 3.9%. The results obtained indicate that elastin has a useful function as a cosmetic material.

MeSH terms

  • Amino Acids / analysis
  • Animals
  • Aorta / chemistry
  • Cells, Cultured
  • Chromatography, Gel
  • Cosmetics / chemistry
  • Cosmetics / pharmacology*
  • Elastin / chemistry
  • Elastin / pharmacology*
  • Humans
  • Molecular Weight
  • Monophenol Monooxygenase / antagonists & inhibitors
  • Skin / chemistry
  • Skin / drug effects
  • Swine
  • Water / analysis

Substances

  • Amino Acids
  • Cosmetics
  • Water
  • Elastin
  • Monophenol Monooxygenase